Bruneau, N., Bonneton, P., Castelle, B., and Pedreros, R.: Modeling rip current circulations and vorticity in a high-energy mesotidal-macrotidal environment, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 116,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006693, 2011.
a,
b
Buckley, M. L., Lowe, R. J., Hansen, J. E., and Van Dongeren, A. R.: Dynamics of wave setup over a steeply sloping fringing reef, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 45, 3005–3023, 2015. a
Buckley, M. L., Lowe, R. J., Hansen, J. E., and Van Dongeren, A. R.: Wave setup over a fringing reef with large bottom roughness, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 46, 2317–2333, 2016.
a,
b,
c,
d
Chung, D., Hutchins, N., Schultz, M. P., and Flack, K. A.: Predicting the drag of rough surfaces, Annual Review of Fluid Mechanics, 53, 439–471, 2021. a
Dally, W. R. and Brown, C. A.: A modeling investigation of the breaking wave roller with application to cross-shore currents, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 100, 24873–24883, 1995. a
Dealbera, S., Sous, D., Morichon, D., and Michaud, H.: The role of roughness geometry in frictional wave dissipation, Coastal Engineering, 189,
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104478, 2024.
a
Dean, R. G. and Bender, C. J.: Static wave setup with emphasis on damping effects by vegetation and bottom friction, Coastal engineering, 53, 149–156, 2006.
a,
b
Drevard, D., Rey, V., and Fraunié, P.: Partially standing wave measurement in the presence of steady current by use of coincident velocity and/or pressure data, Coastal Engineering, 56, 992–1001, 2009. a
Feddersen, F., Guza, R., Elgar, S., and Herbers, T.: Velocity moments in alongshore bottom stress parameterizations, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 105, 8673–8686, 2000.
a,
b,
c,
d
Gourlay, M. R. and Colleter, G.: Wave-generated flow on coral reefs–an analysis for two-dimensional horizontal reef-tops with steep faces, Coastal Engineering, 52, 353–387, 2005. a
Grant, W. D. and Madsen, O. S.: Combined wave and current interaction with a rough bottom, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 84, 1797–1808, 1979. a
Hashimoto, N.: Analysis of the directional wave spectrum from field data, Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 3, 103–144, 1997. a
Lavaud, L., Bertin, X., Martins, K., Pezerat, M., Coulombier, T., and Dausse, D.: Wave dissipation and mean circulation on a shore platform under storm wave conditions, Journal of Geophysical Research: Earth Surface, 127, e2021JF006466,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2021JF006466, 2022.
a,
b
Lentz, S., Davis, K., Churchill, J., and DeCarlo, T.: Coral reef drag coefficients–water depth dependence, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 47, 1061–1075, 2017.
a,
b,
c
Lentz, S., Churchill, J. H., and Davis, K. A.: Coral reef drag coefficients–Surface gravity wave enhancement, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 48, 1555–1566, 2018.
a,
b,
c,
d,
e
Longuet-Higgins, M. S. and Stewart, R.: Radiation stresses in water waves; a physical discussion, with applications, in: Deep sea research and oceanographic abstracts, vol. 11, Elsevier, 529–562,
https://doi.org/10.1016/0011-7471(64)90001-4, 1964.
a
Lowe, R. J., Falter, J. L., Monismith, S. G., and Atkinson, M. J.: Wave-driven circulation of a coastal reef-lagoon system, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 39, 873–893, 2009. a
MacMahan, J., Thornton, E., Patria, N., Gon, C., and Denny, M.: Rip Currents Off Rocky-Shore Surge Channels, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 128, e2022JC019317,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JC019317, 2023.
a
Martins, K., Blenkinsopp, C. E., Deigaard, R., and Power, H. E.: Energy dissipation in the inner surf zone: New insights from Li DAR-based roller geometry measurements, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 123, 3386–3407, 2018. a
Martins, K., Bonneton, P., Lannes, D., and Michallet, H.: Relation between orbital velocities, pressure, and surface elevation in nonlinear nearshore water waves, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 51, 3539–3556, 2021. a
McDonald, C., Koseff, J., and Monismith, S.: Effects of the depth to coral height ratio on drag coefficients for unidirectional flow over coral, Limnology and Oceanography, 51, 1294–1301, 2006.
a,
b,
c
Monismith, S. G., Herdman, L. M., Ahmerkamp, S., and Hench, J. L.: Wave transformation and wave-driven flow across a steep coral reef, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 43, 1356–1379, 2013.
a,
b
Monismith, S. G., Maticka, S. A., Rogers, J. S., Hefner, B., and Woodson, C. B.: Vertical structure of flows on a shallow reef flat: A coral reef surf zone, Coastal Engineering, 190, 104499,
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2024.104499, 2024.
a
Mulder, T., Razin, P., and Faugeres, J.-C.: Hummocky cross-stratification-like structures in deep-sea turbidites: Upper Cretaceous Basque basins (Western Pyrenees, France), Sedimentology, 56, 997–1015, 2009. a
Prémaillon, M., Dewez, T. J., Regard, V., Rosser, N. J., Carretier, S., and Guillen, L.: Conceptual model of fracture-limited sea cliff erosion: Erosion of the seaward tilted flyschs of Socoa, Basque Country, France, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 46, 2690–2709, 2021. a
Rijnsdorp, D. P., Buckley, M. L., da Silva, R. F., Cuttler, M. V., Hansen, J. E., Lowe, R. J., Green, R. H., and Storlazzi, C. D.: A numerical study of wave-driven mean flows and setup dynamics at a coral reef-lagoon system, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 126, e2020JC016811,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2020JC016811, 2021.
a,
b,
c
Rogers, J. S., Maticka, S. A., Chirayath, V., Woodson, C. B., Alonso, J. J., and Monismith, S. G.: Connecting flow over complex terrain to hydrodynamic roughness on a coral reef, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 48, 1567–1587, 2018. a
Rosman, J. H. and Hench, J. L.: A framework for understanding drag parameterizations for coral reefs, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 116,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2010JC006892, 2011.
a,
b
Smith, J. A.: Wave–current interactions in finite depth, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 36, 1403–1419, 2006.
a,
b
Soulsby, R.: Bed shear-stresses due to combined waves and currents, Advances in Coastal Morphodynamics, Eds: Stive, M. J. F., De Vriend, H. J. , Fredsøe, J., Hamm, L., Soulsby, R. L., Teisson, C., and Winterwerp, J. C., pp. 4–20 to 4–23, Delft Hydraulics, Delft, NL, ISBN: 90-9009026-6, 1995.
a,
b
Soulsby, R. L.: The bottom boundary layer of shelf seas, Elsevier oceanography series, 35, 189–266, 1983. a
Sous, D., Bouchette, F., Doerflinger, E., Meulé, S., Certain, R., Toulemonde, G., Dubarbier, B., and Salvat, B.: On the small-scale fractal geometrical structure of a living coral reef barrier, Earth Surface Processes and Landforms, 45, 3042–3054, 2020a.
a,
b
Sous, D., Dodet, G., Bouchette, F., and Tissier, M.: Momentum balance over a barrier reef, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2019JC015503, 2020b.
a,
b,
c,
d
Sous, D., Maticka, S., Meulé, S., and Bouchette, F.: Bottom drag coefficient on a shallow barrier reef, Geophysical Research Letters, 49, e2021GL097628,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2021GL097628, 2022.
a,
b,
c
Sous, D., Martins, K., Tissier, M., Bouchette, F., and Meulé, S.: Spectral wave dissipation over a roughness-varying barrier reef, Geophysical Research Letters, 50, e2022GL102104,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022GL102104, 2023.
a
Sous, D., Meulé, S., Dealbera, S., Michaud, H., Gassier, G., Pezerat, M., and Bouchette, F.: Quantifying the topographical structure of rocky and coral seabeds, Plos one, 19, e0303422,
https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0303422, 2024.
a,
b,
c
Sous, D., Déalbéra, S., Michaud, H., Pézérat, M., Meulé, S., Chemin, R., Regard, V., and Bouchette, F.: Momentum balance over the Socoa rocky platform,
https://doi.org/10.17882/105486 [data set], 2025.
a
Streßer, M., Horstmann, J., and Baschek, B.: Surface Wave and Roller Dissipation Observed With Shore-Based Doppler Marine Radar, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 127, e2022JC018437,
https://doi.org/10.1029/2022JC018437, 2022.
a
Van Dongeren, A., Lowe, R., Pomeroy, A., Trang, D. M., Roelvink, D., Symonds, G., and Ranasinghe, R.: Numerical modeling of low-frequency wave dynamics over a fringing coral reef, Coastal Engineering, 73, 178–190, 2013.
a,
b
Van Rooijen, A., McCall, R., Van Thiel de Vries, J., Van Dongeren, A., Reniers, A., and Roelvink, J.: Modeling the effect of wave-vegetation interaction on wave setup, Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 121, 4341–4359, 2016.
a,
b,
c
Wright, D. G. and Thompson, K. R.: Time-averaged forms of the nonlinear stress law, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 13, 341–345, 1983.
a,
b,
c,
d,
e,
f
Zijlema, M., Stelling, G., and Smit, P.: SWASH: An operational public domain code for simulating wave fields and rapidly varied flows in coastal waters, Coastal Engineering, 58, 992–1012, 2011. a
