Ocean Science
Ocean Science
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Articles | Volume 21, issue 6
Articles | Volume 21, issue 6
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-21-3165-2025
© Author(s) 2025. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-21-3165-2025
© Author(s) 2025. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
Articles | Volume 21, issue 6
Research article
 | 
26 Nov 2025
Research article |  | 26 Nov 2025

Wave-driven amplification of surf-zone bottom stress on rough seabeds

Damien Sous, Marc Pezerat, Solène Dealbera, Héloïse Michaud, and Denis Morichon

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Short summary
The circulation of nearshore water is of primary importance for the health of coastal ecosystems and the coastal hazards, such as erosion. The present study focuses on the role played by bottom friction, which is particularly important in rocky or coral reef areas. Using field observations and numerical simulations, we show that the waves are able to increase the bottom friction and therefore affect the whole circulation and water level dynamics.
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