Wave model verification based on measurements in the Wadden Sea

Abstract. The design height of coastal protection structures in Lower Saxony / Germany is determined by the design water level and the corresponding wave run up. For the calculation of these parameters several mathematical models are used which need to be verified for the conditions at the East Frisian Wadden Sea area. For this issue a wave measuring programme is operationally run, which includes various measurement locations and devices around the islands Norderney and Juist. The measurements are continuously extended and adapted in order to improve models and measurements. This paper shows a comparison between measured and calculated data for the storm surge of the 10.–11.01.2015 incorporating to new wave and water level gauges operated within COSYNA as well as a second research project dealing with wave attenuation behind barrier islands. Water levels within the investigation area were calculated by hydrodynamic models driven with a wind field originating from weather forecast and compared to water level measurements. The corresponding wave energy field was calculated by means of a third generation wave model and results compared to measurements of several devices located around the barrier Islands. The aim of the study shown here is to give a brief overview of possible error sources for model-data as well as data-data comparisons.