Articles | Volume 21, issue 6
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-21-3265-2025
© Author(s) 2025. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
https://doi.org/10.5194/os-21-3265-2025
© Author(s) 2025. This work is distributed under
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License.
Research article
| 
02 Dec 2025
Research article |
| 02 Dec 2025
| 02 Dec 2025
Enhancing coastal winds and surface ocean currents with deep learning for short-term wave forecasting
Manuel García-León
CORRESPONDING AUTHOR
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
José María García-Valdecasas
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
Lotfi Aouf
Meteo-France, Departement Marine et Oceanographie, Toulouse, 31100, France
Alice Dalphinet
Meteo-France, Departement Marine et Oceanographie, Toulouse, 31100, France
Juan Asensio
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
Stefania Angela Ciliberti
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
Breogán Gómez
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
Víctor Aquino
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
Roland Aznar
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
Marcos Sotillo
Nologin Oceanic Weather Systems SLU, Santiago de Compostela, 15705, Spain
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Sophie Lecacheux, Jeremy Rohmer, Eva Membrado, Rodrigo Pedreros, Andrea Filippini, Déborah Idier, Servane Gueben-Vénière, Denis Paradis, Alice Dalphinet, and David Ayache
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Patrick Heimbach, Fearghal O'Donncha, Timothy A. Smith, Jose Maria Garcia-Valdecasas, Alain Arnaud, and Liying Wan
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State Planet, 5-opsr, 15, https://doi.org/10.5194/sp-5-opsr-15-2025, https://doi.org/10.5194/sp-5-opsr-15-2025, 2025
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Jennifer Veitch, Enrique Alvarez-Fanjul, Arthur Capet, Stefania Ciliberti, Mauro Cirano, Emanuela Clementi, Fraser Davidson, Ghada el Serafy, Guilherme Franz, Patrick Hogan, Sudheer Joseph, Svitlana Liubartseva, Yasumasa Miyazawa, Heather Regan, and Katerina Spanoudaki
State Planet, 5-opsr, 6, https://doi.org/10.5194/sp-5-opsr-6-2025, https://doi.org/10.5194/sp-5-opsr-6-2025, 2025
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Mauro Cirano, Enrique Alvarez-Fanjul, Arthur Capet, Stefania Ciliberti, Emanuela Clementi, Boris Dewitte, Matias Dinápoli, Ghada El Serafy, Patrick Hogan, Sudheer Joseph, Yasumasa Miyazawa, Ivonne Montes, Diego A. Narvaez, Heather Regan, Claudia G. Simionato, Gregory C. Smith, Joanna Staneva, Clemente A. S. Tanajura, Pramod Thupaki, Claudia Urbano-Latorre, Jennifer Veitch, and Jorge Zavala Hidalgo
State Planet, 5-opsr, 5, https://doi.org/10.5194/sp-5-opsr-5-2025, https://doi.org/10.5194/sp-5-opsr-5-2025, 2025
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Marcos Garcia Sotillo, Marie Drevillon, and Fabrice Hernandez
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Stefania Ciliberti and Gianpaolo Coro
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Alice Laloue, Malek Ghantous, Yannice Faugère, Alice Dalphinet, and Lotfi Aouf
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Satellite altimetry shows that daily mean significant wave heights (SWHs) and extreme SWHs have increased in the Southern Ocean, the South Atlantic, and the southern Indian Ocean over the last 2 decades. In winter in the North Atlantic, SWH has increased north of 45°N and decreased south of 45°N. SWHs likely to be exceeded every 100 years have also increased in the North Atlantic and the eastern tropical Pacific. However, this study also revealed the need for longer and more consistent series.
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The article comprises the analysis of the ocean heat content in the northeastern Atlantic Iberian–Biscay–Ireland (IBI) region. The variability of ocean heat content is studied, and results are linked with the variability of the main water masses found in the region. Results show how the coupled interannual variability of water masses accounts for an important part of the total ocean heat content variability in the region.
Stefania A. Ciliberti, Enrique Alvarez Fanjul, Jay Pearlman, Kirsten Wilmer-Becker, Pierre Bahurel, Fabrice Ardhuin, Alain Arnaud, Mike Bell, Segolene Berthou, Laurent Bertino, Arthur Capet, Eric Chassignet, Stefano Ciavatta, Mauro Cirano, Emanuela Clementi, Gianpiero Cossarini, Gianpaolo Coro, Stuart Corney, Fraser Davidson, Marie Drevillon, Yann Drillet, Renaud Dussurget, Ghada El Serafy, Katja Fennel, Marcos Garcia Sotillo, Patrick Heimbach, Fabrice Hernandez, Patrick Hogan, Ibrahim Hoteit, Sudheer Joseph, Simon Josey, Pierre-Yves Le Traon, Simone Libralato, Marco Mancini, Pascal Matte, Angelique Melet, Yasumasa Miyazawa, Andrew M. Moore, Antonio Novellino, Andrew Porter, Heather Regan, Laia Romero, Andreas Schiller, John Siddorn, Joanna Staneva, Cecile Thomas-Courcoux, Marina Tonani, Jose Maria Garcia-Valdecasas, Jennifer Veitch, Karina von Schuckmann, Liying Wan, John Wilkin, and Romane Zufic
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Alisée A. Chaigneau, Stéphane Law-Chune, Angélique Melet, Aurore Voldoire, Guillaume Reffray, and Lotfi Aouf
Ocean Sci., 19, 1123–1143, https://doi.org/10.5194/os-19-1123-2023, https://doi.org/10.5194/os-19-1123-2023, 2023
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Wind waves and swells are major drivers of coastal environment changes and can drive coastal marine hazards such as coastal flooding. In this paper, by using numerical modeling along the European Atlantic coastline, we assess how present and future wave characteristics are impacted by sea level changes. For example, at the end of the century under the SSP5-8.5 climate change scenario, extreme significant wave heights are higher by up to +40 % due to the effect of tides and mean sea level rise.
Marzieh H. Derkani, Alberto Alberello, Filippo Nelli, Luke G. Bennetts, Katrin G. Hessner, Keith MacHutchon, Konny Reichert, Lotfi Aouf, Salman Khan, and Alessandro Toffoli
Earth Syst. Sci. Data, 13, 1189–1209, https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-13-1189-2021, https://doi.org/10.5194/essd-13-1189-2021, 2021
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The Southern Ocean has a profound impact on the Earth's climate system. Its strong winds, intense currents, and fierce waves are critical components of the air–sea interface. The scarcity of observations in this remote region hampers the comprehension of fundamental physics, the accuracy of satellite sensors, and the capabilities of prediction models. To fill this gap, a unique data set of simultaneous observations of winds, surface currents, and ocean waves in the Southern Ocean is presented.
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Short summary
Accurate short-term wave forecasts are key for coastal activities. These forecasts rely on wind and currents as forcing, which in this work were both enhanced using neural networks (NNs) trained with satellite and radar data. Tested at three European sites, the NN-corrected winds were 35 % more accurate, and currents also improved. This led to improved IBI (Iberian–Biscay–Ireland) wave model predictions of wave height and period by 10 % and 17 %, respectively; even correcting under extreme events.
Accurate short-term wave forecasts are key for coastal activities. These forecasts rely on wind...
