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<!DOCTYPE article PUBLIC "-//NLM//DTD Journal Publishing with OASIS Tables v3.0 20080202//EN" "https://jats.nlm.nih.gov/nlm-dtd/publishing/3.0/journalpub-oasis3.dtd">
<article xmlns:xlink="http://www.w3.org/1999/xlink" xmlns:mml="http://www.w3.org/1998/Math/MathML" xmlns:oasis="http://docs.oasis-open.org/ns/oasis-exchange/table" xml:lang="en" dtd-version="3.0" article-type="research-article">
  <front>
    <journal-meta><journal-id journal-id-type="publisher">OS</journal-id><journal-title-group>
    <journal-title>Ocean Science</journal-title>
    <abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="publisher">OS</abbrev-journal-title><abbrev-journal-title abbrev-type="nlm-ta">Ocean Sci.</abbrev-journal-title>
  </journal-title-group><issn pub-type="epub">1812-0792</issn><publisher>
    <publisher-name>Copernicus Publications</publisher-name>
    <publisher-loc>Göttingen, Germany</publisher-loc>
  </publisher></journal-meta>
    <article-meta>
      <article-id pub-id-type="doi">10.5194/os-22-727-2026</article-id><title-group><article-title>Horizontal transport on the continental shelf  driven by periodic rotary wind stress</article-title><alt-title>The transport on the continental shelf driven by periodic rotary wind stress</alt-title>
      </title-group>
      <contrib-group>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="yes" rid="aff1">
          <name><surname>Paldor</surname><given-names>Nathan</given-names></name>
          <email>nathan.paldor@mail.huji.ac.il</email>
        </contrib>
        <contrib contrib-type="author" corresp="no" rid="aff2">
          <name><surname>Friedland</surname><given-names>Lazar</given-names></name>
          
        </contrib>
        <aff id="aff1"><label>1</label><institution>Fredy and Nadine Herrmann Institute of Earth Sciences, Hebrew University of Jerusalem, 91904 Jerusalem, Israel</institution>
        </aff>
        <aff id="aff2"><label>2</label><institution>Racah Institute of Physics, Hebrew University of Jerusalem, 91904 Jerusalem, Israel</institution>
        </aff>
      </contrib-group>
      <author-notes><corresp id="corr1">Nathan Paldor (nathan.paldor@mail.huji.ac.il)</corresp></author-notes><pub-date><day>20</day><month>February</month><year>2026</year></pub-date>
      
      <volume>22</volume>
      <issue>1</issue>
      <fpage>727</fpage><lpage>734</lpage>
      <history>
        <date date-type="received"><day>20</day><month>October</month><year>2025</year></date>
           <date date-type="rev-request"><day>30</day><month>October</month><year>2025</year></date>
           <date date-type="rev-recd"><day>8</day><month>February</month><year>2026</year></date>
           <date date-type="accepted"><day>10</day><month>February</month><year>2026</year></date>
      </history>
      <permissions>
        <copyright-statement>Copyright: © 2026 Nathan Paldor</copyright-statement>
        <copyright-year>2026</copyright-year>
      <license license-type="open-access"><license-p>This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this licence, visit <ext-link ext-link-type="uri" xlink:href="https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/">https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/</ext-link></license-p></license></permissions><self-uri xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026.html">This article is available from https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026.html</self-uri><self-uri xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026.pdf">The full text article is available as a PDF file from https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026.pdf</self-uri>
      <abstract><title>Abstract</title>

      <p id="d2e97">Wind driven circulation of a uniform density fluid on a linearly sloping continental shelf is studied by employing the Lagrangian equations of motion forced by periodic rotary wind stress. The analysis yields explicit approximate expressions for the water column trajectories in the longshore and cross-shore directions, and these expressions are verified by numerical integration of the governing nonlinear equations. The periodic rotary wind stress generates a steady longshore drift directed with land to its left when the wind rotates counterclockwise at sub-inertial frequencies and with land to its right in all other frequencies. Counterclockwise rotation of the wind at the local inertial frequency results in a strong resonance manifested in very fast longshore drift.</p>
  </abstract>
    </article-meta>
  </front>
<body>
      

<sec id="Ch1.S1" sec-type="intro">
  <label>1</label><title>Introduction</title>
      <p id="d2e109">The fundamental and succinct, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M1" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane, theory developed by Vagn W. Ekman in  <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx6" id="text.1"/> decomposes the transport (i.e. the vertically averaged horizontal velocity) at the ocean surface driven by uniform wind stress into a steady component directed at right angles relative to the overlying wind and inertial oscillations. The theory considers a layer of uniform depth (thickness) at the ocean surface forced by overlying uniform (in time and space) wind stress. This assumption breaks down over the continental shelf, where the bottom slopes nearly linearly with distance from the shore, so the vertical averaging includes a thinner layer near the coast. The nonuniformity of the depth (thickness) of the water column greatly modifies the original theory developed by Ekman, in which all coefficients are assumed constant in time and space.</p>
      <p id="d2e123">Ekman's original theory of ocean transport by time-independent wind forcing was extended to cases in which the coefficients in the governing equations vary spatially. These cases include the latitudinal variation of the Coriolis frequency: <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx18 bib1.bibx15" id="text.2"/> and the linear slope of the continental shelf under steady wind forcing: <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx16" id="text.3"/>. In view of the primary role played by wind forcing in the dynamics and transport on the shelf <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx1 bib1.bibx9" id="paren.4"/> it is important to also examine the ramifications of temporal changes in the wind forcing over the shelf, which is the focus of the present theory.</p>
      <p id="d2e135">Starting in the 1970s, a series of studies have extended Ekman's theory in layers of uniform depth to periodic wind stress forcing <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx8 bib1.bibx4 bib1.bibx13" id="paren.5"/>. The theories are based on the decomposition of the periodic wind stress into clockwise (CW) and counterclockwise (CCW) rotating components, and these theories clearly show that the effect of the CCW component differs dramatically from that of the CW component. To demonstrate this difference, <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="text.6"/> wrote the wind stress as:

          <disp-formula id="Ch1.E1" content-type="numbered"><label>1</label><mml:math id="M2" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

        where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M3" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M4" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are the wind stress components in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M5" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M6" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> directions, respectively, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M7" display="inline"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M8" display="inline"><mml:mi>B</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> are the amplitudes of the CCW and CW components, respectively, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M9" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the wind stress frequency. In this notation, the explicit expressions for the counterclockwise (CCW) and clockwise (CW) components of the resulting ocean surface transport are <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="paren.7"><named-content content-type="pre">see Eq. 7 in</named-content></xref>: 

          <disp-formula id="Ch1.E2" content-type="numbered"><label>2</label><mml:math id="M10" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi>A</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:msup><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:msup><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msup><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

        where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M11" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the uniform water density and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M12" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the local Coriolis frequency (assumed positive as in the northern hemisphere). These expressions describe the particular solution of the inhomogeneous equation to which the inertial oscillations associated with solutions of the homogeneous 2nd order equation should be added to solve a particular initial value problem. The singularity of the solution's CW component is evident when the frequency of the CW wind forcing is equal to the Coriolis frequency.</p>
      <p id="d2e385">The solution also implies that a periodic CW wind stress induces a surface transport directed 90° to the left of the wind direction (in the northern hemisphere) when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M13" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in which case the coefficient of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M14" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>B</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>e</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M15" display="inline"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mo>|</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>|</mml:mo><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:math></inline-formula>. This occurrence of a current directed to the left of the wind forcing at some frequencies is completely missing from Ekman's original theory. Observations correlating the frequency of the overlying wind stress with that of the resulting currents in the ocean surface layer were reported by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx24" id="text.8"/> who found that the two are correlated only for low clockwise frequency.</p>
      <p id="d2e450">The present study focuses on basins with variable depth that are excluded from these results, so the results in a variable water thickness should be derived from solutions to the wind forced problem in basins with a sloping bottom. In addition to its effect on the oceanic response to periodic wind stress forcing, the sloping bottom also induces horizontal convergence (divergence) of the Ekman transport, which is balanced by the downwelling (upwelling) of water to (from) the deep ocean <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx16" id="paren.9"/>. As is well known, the phenomenon of Ekman pumping that results from the curl of the wind stress in flat bottom basins <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx7 bib1.bibx22" id="paren.10"/> has important implications for the physical properties <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx5 bib1.bibx10 bib1.bibx2" id="paren.11"/> and biogeochemical distribution <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx23" id="paren.12"/> at the ocean surface and its communication with deeper layers. Clearly, the quantification of Ekman pumping is based on mass conservation in a fluid of uniform density <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx7 bib1.bibx5 bib1.bibx20 bib1.bibx22" id="paren.13"/>. The continuity equation can be combined with the solution of the horizontal transport to yield an expression for the pumping in terms of the curl of the wind stress divided by the Coriolis frequency <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx7" id="paren.14"><named-content content-type="pre">see, e.g., Eq. 9.4.2 in</named-content></xref> which applies also to a uniform wind stress on the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M16" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane. These estimates originate from the Eulerian view of mass conservation in which the divergence of the horizontal velocity is related to the change in the height (volume) of a fixed mass of a fluid element.</p>
      <p id="d2e481">Although the alternate Lagrangian framework adopted here provides a simple and intuitive form of the momentum equations, mass conservation in this framework is more complicated and less intuitive. The reason is that in this framework mass conservation is based on the explicit expression of the coordinate transformation between the initial time and any subsequent time <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx12 bib1.bibx3" id="paren.15"/> and such explicit expressions are rarely available. The Lagrangian system of nonlinear momentum equations for a wind forced water column on the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M17" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane was greatly simplified recently by substituting the pseudo angular momentum for the zonal velocity <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx17 bib1.bibx15" id="paren.16"/>, which yielded the required explicit expressions of the horizontal trajectory of a single column. With these explicit expressions of the coordinate transformation, mass conservation could be applied to estimate the sign and magnitude of the horizontal divergence. This view of mass conservation was successfully applied in other wind driven problem <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx15 bib1.bibx16" id="paren.17"/> so the development of explicit analytical expressions of the coordinate transformation in the present study can presumably be also employed to calculate the time-dependent upwelling when the wind stress rotates (in space) periodically (in time).</p>
      <p id="d2e500">This paper addresses the wind driven dynamics on the continental shelf when the wind forcing is periodically rotating in time while its amplitude is held constant. It is organized as follows: Sect. <xref ref-type="sec" rid="Ch1.S2"/> presents the non-dimensional model Lagrangian equations, and the analysis of the dynamical equations. In Sect. <xref ref-type="sec" rid="Ch1.S3"/>, we solve the equations numerically, thus verifying the validity of the analytic results. The paper ends in Sect. <xref ref-type="sec" rid="Ch1.S4"/> with a summary and discussion of the derived findings.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2">
  <label>2</label><title>Model equations and analytic considerations</title>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS1">
  <label>2.1</label><title>The Lagrangian single column model</title>
      <p id="d2e524">The equations describing the changes in the horizontal velocity at depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M18" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> subject to a <inline-formula><mml:math id="M19" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-dependent viscous force and a uniform Coriolis frequency (known as the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M20" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane model since <inline-formula><mml:math id="M21" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M22" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is Earth's frequency of rotation, is assumed constant, determined by setting <inline-formula><mml:math id="M23" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> equal to <inline-formula><mml:math id="M24" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> – a central latitude) in a layer of fluid of uniform density are given by (see e.g. <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx7 bib1.bibx22" id="altparen.18"/>):

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E3" content-type="numbered"><label>3</label><mml:math id="M25" display="block"><mml:mtable rowspacing="0.2ex" class="split" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>v</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>u</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>v</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>v</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>u</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M26" display="inline"><mml:mi>u</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M27" display="inline"><mml:mi>v</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> are the components of the horizontal velocity vector, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M28" display="inline"><mml:munder><mml:mi mathvariant="bold-italic">V</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">¯</mml:mo></mml:munder></mml:math></inline-formula>, in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M29" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M30" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> directions, respectively, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M31" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the water density, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M32" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϕ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the constant Coriolis frequency, and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M33" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M34" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are the viscous stress forces in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M35" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M36" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> directions, respectively at depth <inline-formula><mml:math id="M37" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx22 bib1.bibx5" id="paren.19"/>.</p>
      <p id="d2e895">The <inline-formula><mml:math id="M38" display="inline"><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-dependence can be eliminated by integrating the equations between a lower boundary, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M39" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and the surface, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M40" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, which upon division by the layer thickness, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M41" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, yields the equations for the vertically averaged velocity <inline-formula><mml:math id="M42" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:munderover><mml:mo movablelimits="false">∫</mml:mo><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:munderover><mml:munder><mml:mi mathvariant="bold-italic">V</mml:mi><mml:mo mathvariant="normal">¯</mml:mo></mml:munder><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>z</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in a water column. Clearly, in these vertically averaged equations, the stress terms appear only in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M43" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M44" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. At <inline-formula><mml:math id="M45" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> the stress is set to the stress applied by the overlying winds, and at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M46" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>z</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> it is set to zero for large <inline-formula><mml:math id="M47" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (where the wind-forced velocity is assumed to vanish) or to an assumed bottom friction for small <inline-formula><mml:math id="M48" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> that reaches the bottom of the shallow basin.</p>
      <p id="d2e1040">We now set the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M49" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M50" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> directions parallel and perpendicular to the shoreline, respectively, as in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F1"/>. The vertically averaged counterpart of system (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E3"/>) in these directions is:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E4" content-type="numbered"><label>4</label><mml:math id="M51" display="block"><mml:mtable class="split" rowspacing="0.2ex" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>U</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M52" display="inline"><mml:mi>U</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M53" display="inline"><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> are the vertically averaged velocities in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M54" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M55" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> directions, respectively.</p>

      <fig id="F1"><label>Figure 1</label><caption><p id="d2e1270">The linearly sloping shelf, the wind stress vectors, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M56" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, shown here at angles <inline-formula><mml:math id="M57" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">180</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>° (blue thick arrow) and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M58" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">270</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>° (green thick arrow) relative to the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M59" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> direction. The angle, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M60" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, increases in agreement with the counterclockwise rotation of the wind (curved arrow). The offshore directed surface current and the compensating onshore directed bottom current (dashed arrows) are shown in an upwelling mode, associated with a constant wind stress at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M61" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">180</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>°.</p></caption>
          <graphic xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026-f01.png"/>

        </fig>

      <p id="d2e1344">On a linearly sloping continental shelf, such as that sketched in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F1"/>, the layer thickness is given by <inline-formula><mml:math id="M62" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> so the second terms on the RHS of the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M63" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M64" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> equations in system (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E4"/>) are:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E5" content-type="numbered"><label>5</label><mml:math id="M65" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M66" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> denotes <inline-formula><mml:math id="M67" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> or <inline-formula><mml:math id="M68" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The shoreline, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M69" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, is a special case that differs fundamentally from all <inline-formula><mml:math id="M70" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> points, since at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M71" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> both the denominator and the numerator in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E5"/>) vanish. In contrast, at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M72" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> the denominator is finite and the bottom stress, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M73" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, can be neglected compared to the wind stress, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M74" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, since away from the shoreline the bottom velocity is small. In the remainder of this work, we focus on the range <inline-formula><mml:math id="M75" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, which eliminates the “shoreline singularity” at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M76" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The immediate vicinity of the shoreline that is affected by this singularity is shaded gray in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F1"/> and, as will be shown below, the extent of this excluded range has a negligible effect on the solution in the rest of the shelf. The gray region near the shore is the terminus of the landward directed bottom flow that balances the seaward directed surface flow that originates from the forcing by the overlying wind stress.</p>
      <p id="d2e1583">Although <inline-formula><mml:math id="M77" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>H</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> denotes the bottom slope of the shelf topography, it is used here as the depth of the Ekman layer in the bulk of the shelf, i.e., away from the gray region and above the viscous bottom layer, both of which are noted in Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F1"/>. The assumption underlying this identity of bottom depth and thickness of the Ekman layer is that the viscosity dominated bottom flow occupies a layer that is thinner than <inline-formula><mml:math id="M78" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> throughout the bulk of the shelf. Thus, the momentum imparted by the wind stress reaches only the top of this bottom layer, i.e., a depth approximated by H away from the gray region right next to the coast. The complex, highly viscous flow at the bottom of the shelf results in response to the direct wind-driven flow at the surface, and this bottom flow guaranties that near the coast the sea surface height remains unchanged by the surface flow. In the present work, we focus on the first-order primary dynamics of the surface wind-driven flow over a sloping bottom and ignore the second-order viscous dynamics of the bottom flow, which greatly complicates the governing equations. The combined dynamics of the surface and bottom layers is too complex to yield analytical results similar to those developed here, and we leave the inclusion of the compensating viscous bottom flow to future, primarily numerical, studies.</p>
      <p id="d2e1609">These considerations imply that at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M79" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> the dynamical system of wind driven flow on the continental shelf is given by:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E6" content-type="numbered"><label>6</label><mml:math id="M80" display="block"><mml:mtable class="split" rowspacing="0.2ex" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mspace linebreak="nobreak" width="0.25em"/><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mspace width="0.25em" linebreak="nobreak"/><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>U</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

          In the model under study, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M81" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M82" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are periodic in time, while their amplitude remains constant. We therefore let <inline-formula><mml:math id="M83" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Γ</mml:mi><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M84" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Γ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M85" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Γ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the constant dimensional amplitude of the wind stress and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M86" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is its direction relative to <inline-formula><mml:math id="M87" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Although the frequency, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M88" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, is by definition positive, here we attach to it a sign that indicates whether the direction of the wind relative to the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M89" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> direction, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M90" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">θ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, increases or decreases. Thus, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M91" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> implies counterclockwise rotation of the wind <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="paren.20"><named-content content-type="pre">denoted by CCW in</named-content></xref>, while <inline-formula><mml:math id="M92" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> implies clockwise rotation of the wind <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="paren.21"><named-content content-type="pre">denoted by CW in</named-content></xref>.</p>
      <p id="d2e1958">While the dimensional equations in system (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E6"/>) can be easily solved numerically, the nondimensional form minimizes the number of free parameters, which helps unravel the overall properties of the solutions <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx17" id="paren.22"/>. Naturally, time, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M93" display="inline"><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, in the four-dimensional system (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E6"/>), is scaled on <inline-formula><mml:math id="M94" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>≈</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>s</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Since the analysis below is based on the smallness of the wind stress amplitude, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M95" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Γ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>S</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> cannot be used to define the length scale. Thus, we scale the velocity components <inline-formula><mml:math id="M96" display="inline"><mml:mi>U</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M97" display="inline"><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> on the typical velocity over the shelf: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M98" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">scale</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m s<sup>−1</sup>. The length scale, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M100" display="inline"><mml:mi>L</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M101" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M102" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is then chosen as <inline-formula><mml:math id="M103" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">scale</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>≈</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> km. The use of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M104" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in the definition of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M105" display="inline"><mml:mi>L</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> assumes, of course, that it is positive. In order for the theory to apply in the southern hemisphere, where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M106" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, one has to define the scale as <inline-formula><mml:math id="M107" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>|</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mo>|</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, leaving in the equations a “flag” that denotes the sign of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M108" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. We further modify the equations by substituting <inline-formula><mml:math id="M109" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M110" display="inline"><mml:mi>U</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> in the nondimensional equations. As can be easily verified, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M111" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is conserved (i.e. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M112" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) in inertial motion where the wind stress vanishes. The associated relationship between zonal velocity and meridional coordinate in inertial dynamics on a sphere or on the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M113" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane reflects the conservation of angular momentum <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx21 bib1.bibx19 bib1.bibx14" id="paren.23"/>. This study employs a perturbative method where the small parameter is the amplitude of the wind stress so it is advantageous to select a variable such as <inline-formula><mml:math id="M114" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> which is time-independent when the wind stress vanishes. Following these two changes, system (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E6"/>) transforms to:

                <disp-formula specific-use="align" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M115" display="block"><mml:mtable displaystyle="true"><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E7"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>7</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E8"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>8</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E9"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>9</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E10"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>10</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

          where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M116" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Γ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the nondimensional amplitude of wind stress forcing and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M117" display="inline"><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M118" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> are the nondimensional time and wind stress frequency (including the sign attached to it as explained above), respectively. With the scales used here the nondimensional Coriolis frequency is equal to 1 and for the typical oceanic values of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M119" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Γ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.03</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> N m<sup>−2</sup>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M121" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ρ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1027</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> kg m<sup>−3</sup>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M123" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>S</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">10</mml:mn><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and  <inline-formula><mml:math id="M124" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub><mml:mi>L</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> m s<sup>−1</sup> the forcing amplitude is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M126" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>≈</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.1</mml:mn><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The only free parameters of the nonlinear dynamical system (Eqs. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>–<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E10"/>) are the wind stress rotation frequency, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M127" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, the wind stress amplitude, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M128" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, and the initial values of the dependent variables. As intended, Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E9"/>) ensures that <inline-formula><mml:math id="M129" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">Const</mml:mi><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M130" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> while <inline-formula><mml:math id="M131" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> even when the wind stresses, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M132" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M133" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, vanish in system (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E6"/>).</p>
      <p id="d2e2655">A natural choice of initial velocities is that the water column is motionless at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M134" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> when the wind stress sets the column into motion, i.e. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M135" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M136" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The definition <inline-formula><mml:math id="M137" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> implies, therefore, that <inline-formula><mml:math id="M138" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Since <inline-formula><mml:math id="M139" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> does not appear on the RHS of the equations in the system (Eqs. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>–<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E10"/>), <inline-formula><mml:math id="M140" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> can be set without loss of generality, so the only initial condition affecting the dynamics is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M141" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p>
      <p id="d2e2793">A general analytical scheme that can provide insight on the solutions of the nonlinear system of equations (Eqs. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>–<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E10"/>) and on the trajectory of a water column on both the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M142" display="inline"><mml:mi>f</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane and the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M143" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">β</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>-plane forced by a wind stress was developed recently for constant <inline-formula><mml:math id="M144" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> in <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx17" id="text.24"/>. In this scheme the system is analyzed by combining Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E8"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E10"/>) to a single 2nd order equation:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E11" content-type="numbered"><label>11</label><mml:math id="M145" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          In the following, we will assume that the wind stress contributions in Eqs. (9) and (11) are perturbations, i.e., <inline-formula><mml:math id="M146" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>≈</mml:mo><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M147" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>≈</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M148" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>≪</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Note that the last condition can be satisfied even when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M149" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M150" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, provided <inline-formula><mml:math id="M151" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. According to Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E9"/>) for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M152" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>≪</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M153" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> varies slowly with time, which implies that the dynamics of the (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M154" display="inline"><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M155" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) subsystem is that of a quasi-particle in a slowly varying potential. The following analysis focuses on the (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M156" display="inline"><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M157" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M158" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) subsystem, Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E9"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E11"/>) for slowly varying <inline-formula><mml:math id="M159" display="inline"><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS2">
  <label>2.2</label><title>The linear solutions</title>
      <p id="d2e3079">The initial conditions detailed above imply that inertial oscillations (i.e. in the absence of body forces) are filtered out from the dynamics since for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M160" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> a water column remains in its initial location at all <inline-formula><mml:math id="M161" display="inline"><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M162" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M163" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The first step of the analysis is to linearize <inline-formula><mml:math id="M164" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M165" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> about their respective initial values <inline-formula><mml:math id="M166" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M167" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, that is, to substitute: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M168" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M169" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E9"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E11"/>) where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M170" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M171" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are <inline-formula><mml:math id="M172" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The resulting linear system is:

                <disp-formula specific-use="align" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M173" display="block"><mml:mtable displaystyle="true"><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E12"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>12</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E13"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>13</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mstyle class="stylechange" displaystyle="true"/></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula>

          The initial conditions associated with this 3rd order differential system are: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M174" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The 3 initial conditions define a unique solution of the differential problem. A direct integration of Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E13"/>) yields:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E14" content-type="numbered"><label>14</label><mml:math id="M175" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          which satisfies the initial condition <inline-formula><mml:math id="M176" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. For the solution of Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E12"/>) we assume a form that includes the function <inline-formula><mml:math id="M177" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> that solves the inhomogeneous  part of this equation, i.e.:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E15" content-type="numbered"><label>15</label><mml:math id="M178" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          The constant <inline-formula><mml:math id="M179" display="inline"><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and the function <inline-formula><mml:math id="M180" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> need to be determined by the initial conditions. Substituting this form of solution in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E12"/>) yields:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E16" content-type="numbered"><label>16</label><mml:math id="M181" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mtable class="split" rowspacing="0.2ex" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>G</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>G</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          The <inline-formula><mml:math id="M182" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> terms in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E16"/>) yield:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E17" content-type="numbered"><label>17</label><mml:math id="M183" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          while the remaining terms yield: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M184" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi>G</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>G</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> i.e. oscillations at the inertial frequency, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M185" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>±</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, that appear due to the presence of the wind forcing in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M186" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> terms. The initial conditions imposed on <inline-formula><mml:math id="M187" display="inline"><mml:mi>G</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> are: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M188" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M189" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> to ensure that <inline-formula><mml:math id="M190" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M191" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The resulting solution of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M192" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> that satisfies these initial conditions is: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M193" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, which implies that

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E18" content-type="numbered"><label>18</label><mml:math id="M194" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          Finally, Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E17"/>) yields the expression for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M195" display="inline"><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E19" content-type="numbered"><label>19</label><mml:math id="M196" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>a</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          Substituting the expressions of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M197" display="inline"><mml:mi>a</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M198" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>G</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> derived above in the general expressions of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M199" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and combining it with the solution for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M200" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> yields:

                <disp-formula specific-use="gather" content-type="numbered"><mml:math id="M201" display="block"><mml:mtable displaystyle="true"><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E20"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>20</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:mtable class="split" rowspacing="0.2ex" displaystyle="true" columnalign="right left"><mml:mtr><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr><mml:mtr><mml:mtd/><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>[</mml:mo><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>]</mml:mo><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mtr></mml:mtable></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr><mml:mlabeledtr id="Ch1.E21"><mml:mtd><mml:mtext>21</mml:mtext></mml:mtd><mml:mtd><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true" class="stylechange"/><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mrow></mml:mtd></mml:mlabeledtr></mml:mtable></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
      <p id="d2e4411">The solution for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M202" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> has a strong resonance effect near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M203" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. As can be expected, the time-dependent solution of the problem has two fundamental frequencies: The inertial frequency, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M204" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, (that is, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M205" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in dimensional units) and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M206" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, the frequency of the wind forcing. The corresponding solutions for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M207" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> can be derived by inserting Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E20"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E21"/>) in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>).</p>
      <p id="d2e4493">Having completed the analysis of the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M208" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> terms in Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E9"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E11"/>) we turn now to the analysis of the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M209" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> terms, which can be better compared with the solutions obtained by numerical simulations.</p>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S2.SS3">
  <label>2.3</label><title>Second order effects in the wind stress and the drift in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M210" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula></title>
      <p id="d2e4569">The constant drift in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M211" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> appears if <inline-formula><mml:math id="M212" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>) has a constant component. Time averages of the linear (in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M213" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>) components of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M214" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M215" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E20"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E21"/>) do not produce such constant components since all terms are purely oscillatory. We, therefore, include <inline-formula><mml:math id="M216" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> terms in Eqs. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E9"/>) and (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E11"/>) to get:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E22" content-type="numbered"><label>22</label><mml:math id="M217" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          and

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E23" content-type="numbered"><label>23</label><mml:math id="M218" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>,</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

          where for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M219" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> we use the oscillatory linear solution (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E18"/>). Note that the RHS of Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E22"/>) has zero average components only. Therefore, the solution of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M220" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> also has only zero average components. In contrast, the RHS of Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E23"/>) has oscillating zero average components, but also a nonzero averaged term: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M221" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Thus, the solution of Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E23"/>) has a constant component that originates from the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M222" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) term in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M223" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> via: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M224" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mfenced open="〈" close="〉"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The zonal drift associated with this term is:

            <disp-formula id="Ch1.E24" content-type="numbered"><label>24</label><mml:math id="M225" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi></mml:msub><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mfenced open="〈" close="〉"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>〈</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>〉</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn></mml:msup></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">2</mml:mn><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:msup><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">3</mml:mn></mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula></p>
      <p id="d2e5099">This drift is much stronger (resonant) near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M226" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and changes sign at this frequency in accordance with the resonance in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M227" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> at this value. The existence of this constant, 2nd order, longshore drift is quite surprising in view of the periodically rotating wind stress forcing and the traditional (steady) 90° angle between the wind stress and the surface transport. The direction of the drift is positive except for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M228" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in which case <inline-formula><mml:math id="M229" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in the denominator is negative. In an entirely different Eulerian model in which the “shelf” is merely a transition zone between a finite-depth open ocean and a shallower, uniform-depth coastal region, <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx11" id="text.25"/> proposed a heuristic explanation for the long-shelf drift in terms of the Eulerian long-shore velocity gradient on both sides of the “shelf”. Although this explanation does not apply to the purely Lagrangian model studied here, the emergence of a long-shore drift over a sloping bottom seems to be of general applicability, but the dependence of the drift's direction on the forcing frequency probably characterizes only the present model.</p>
      <p id="d2e5165">Numerical solutions of system (Eq. <xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>–<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E10"/>) that verify the validity of the analytic approximations developed here are presented in Sect. <xref ref-type="sec" rid="Ch1.S3"/>.</p>
</sec>
</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S3">
  <label>3</label><title>Numerical confirmations</title>
      <p id="d2e5183">Four examples comparing the theory (white dashed curves) and simulations (blue curves) near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M230" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M231" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> i.e. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M232" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>±</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.8</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M233" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>±</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1.2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are shown in Figs. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F2"/>–<xref ref-type="fig" rid="F5"/>. The initial conditions used in all simulations are <inline-formula><mml:math id="M234" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M235" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M236" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M237" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">4</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The simulations were carried out using MATLAB routine ODE45, which is based on Runge–Kutta formula (4, 5), with relative and absolute tolerances of 10<sup>−9</sup>. The figures show the accuracy of the approximate analytic expressions (blue thick solid curves) compared to the simulated solutions (white thin dashed curves) even when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M239" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is not very small (recall that for realistic oceanic values <inline-formula><mml:math id="M240" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and that the small parameter is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M241" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>). For smaller values of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M242" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> the approximate analytic expressions are even closer to the numerical solutions. The <inline-formula><mml:math id="M243" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> plots (lower panels) also demonstrate the validity of the approximate longshore drift given by Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E24"/>) shown by the green straight lines in these panels. As anticipated analytically, the longshore drift is directed in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M244" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> direction when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M245" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M246" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> direction when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M247" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M248" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. Regarding the other variables of the dynamics, in addition to the direction of longshore drift, the only other appreciable difference between positive and negative forcing frequencies is in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M249" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">δ</mml:mi><mml:mi>D</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> curves (results not shown).</p>

      <fig id="F2"><label>Figure 2</label><caption><p id="d2e5488">A comparison between direct simulations (dashed white curves) and the explicit expressions developed in Sect. <xref ref-type="sec" rid="Ch1.S2"/> for small <inline-formula><mml:math id="M250" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (solid thick blue curves) of: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M251" display="inline"><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (upper panel) and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M252" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> (lower panel) for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M253" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1.2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M254" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.5</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. The green straight line in the lower panel shows the approximate expression for the drift given in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E24"/>).</p></caption>
        <graphic xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026-f02.png"/>

      </fig>

      <fig id="F3"><label>Figure 3</label><caption><p id="d2e5549">Same as Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F2"/> but for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M255" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.8</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p></caption>
        <graphic xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026-f03.png"/>

      </fig>

      <fig id="F4"><label>Figure 4</label><caption><p id="d2e5575">Same as Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F2"/> but for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M256" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1.2</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p></caption>
        <graphic xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026-f04.png"/>

      </fig>

      <fig id="F5"><label>Figure 5</label><caption><p id="d2e5602">Same as Fig. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F2"/> but for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M257" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.8</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>.</p></caption>
        <graphic xlink:href="https://os.copernicus.org/articles/22/727/2026/os-22-727-2026-f05.png"/>

      </fig>

</sec>
<sec id="Ch1.S4" sec-type="conclusions">
  <label>4</label><title>Summary and discussion</title>
      <p id="d2e5635">In this work, we developed a theory of surface transport on a linearly sloping continental shelf forced by periodically rotating wind stress. The perturbative analysis is based on the smallness of the nondimensional amplitude of the rotating wind forcing. The shoreline singularity where the shelf's mean depth, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M258" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, vanishes does not appreciably affect the solution far from the shoreline, since the solution there is independent of the seaward extent of the region containing the singular point. Analysis and numerical simulations show that although the wind forcing is rotary and periodic, there exists a longshore drift directed in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M259" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> direction when <inline-formula><mml:math id="M260" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and in the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M261" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> direction for values of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M262" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> outside this range.</p>
      <p id="d2e5690">The resonance expected to dominate the dynamics at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M263" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, that is, for a CW rotation at the local inertial frequency is evident in the drift in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M264" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>. which is about 4 times larger near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M265" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (lower panels in Figs. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F4"/> and <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F5"/>) than near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M266" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (lower panels in Figs. <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F2"/> and <xref ref-type="fig" rid="F3"/>). The ratio between the drift in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M267" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M268" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M269" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M270" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> near <inline-formula><mml:math id="M271" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> increases drastically when the frequency approaches these values. For <inline-formula><mml:math id="M272" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (to ensure that the perturbation analysis is valid), the ratio between the drifts in <inline-formula><mml:math id="M273" display="inline"><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M274" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.95</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M275" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0.95</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is <inline-formula><mml:math id="M276" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>O</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">50</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> (results not shown). The resonance at <inline-formula><mml:math id="M277" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> originates from the general solution of the homogeneous equation (mentioned only briefly in the above analysis, which focuses on the particular solution of the inhomogeneous equation) that describes inertial oscillations that rotate clockwise at the local Coriolis frequency, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M278" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msub><mml:mi>f</mml:mi><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:msub></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, denoted as <inline-formula><mml:math id="M279" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in the notation used here.</p>
      <p id="d2e5890">As discussed in the Introduction, in the case of a uniform <inline-formula><mml:math id="M280" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> periodic rotary wind forcing yields a range of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M281" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> in which the surface transport is directed <bold>left</bold> of the wind stress. To show that this counterintuitive result exists also on the shelf one has to compare <inline-formula><mml:math id="M282" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> to <inline-formula><mml:math id="M283" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>cos⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> in the particular solution (i.e. after eliminating inertial oscillations from the solution of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M284" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>). Substituting Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E20"/>) (without the <inline-formula><mml:math id="M285" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>sin⁡</mml:mi><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> term) and Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E21"/>) in Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E7"/>) and adding to the resulting equation <inline-formula><mml:math id="M286" display="inline"><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> times the derivative of Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E20"/>) yields:

          <disp-formula id="Ch1.E25" content-type="numbered"><label>25</label><mml:math id="M287" display="block"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ϵ</mml:mi><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mfenced close=")" open="("><mml:mstyle displaystyle="true"><mml:mfrac style="display"><mml:mrow><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mfenced><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:msup><mml:mo>+</mml:mo><mml:mi>i</mml:mi><mml:msup><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">τ</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:msup></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced><mml:mo>.</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></disp-formula>

        The surface transport on the LHS of this expression is directed to the left of the wind stress for <inline-formula><mml:math id="M288" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. This result extends the result originally derived by <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="text.26"/> in a basin of uniform <inline-formula><mml:math id="M289" display="inline"><mml:mi>H</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> to the continental shelf. As noted above, the CW notation used in <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx13" id="text.27"/> where only positive <inline-formula><mml:math id="M290" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> values were allowed, is represented in the present study by negative <inline-formula><mml:math id="M291" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> values (and CCW by positive <inline-formula><mml:math id="M292" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> values).</p>
      <p id="d2e6151">This last result is of primary observational importance as it predicts that along a coast dominated by the daily transition from sea breeze during daytime to land breeze during nighttime the direction of the longshore drift is determined by the sense of wind rotation (CW or CCW i.e. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M293" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&lt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> or <inline-formula><mml:math id="M294" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi><mml:mo>&gt;</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) and by the latitude (that determines the Coriolis frequency). The theory developed here should be applied to observations of the trajectories of drogued surface drifters on the shelf under known wind conditions. Our results should also be compared to simulations by Ocean General Circulation Models (OGCM). However, the reader is reminded that our model deals with the vertically averaged velocity, so care should be exercised when comparing our results to OGCM simulations where a surface boundary layer and an inviscid interior exist.</p>
      <p id="d2e6179">From a theoretical perspective, mass conservation should be applied to the solutions found here to assess whether or not periodic rotating wind stresses induce upwelling or downwelling. In the Lagrangian formulation used here, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M295" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M296" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> are dependent variables that quantify the temporal changes in the coordinates of a particular water column. Thus, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M297" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>U</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M298" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>V</mml:mi><mml:mo>/</mml:mo><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> do not have the Eulerian meaning of components of horizontal divergence and only imply the co-variation of pairs of dependent variables. In the Lagrangian framework, where the only independent variable is time, conservation of mass in an incompressible fluid is determined by the Jacobian of the coordinate transformation between 0 and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M299" display="inline"><mml:mi>t</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>: <inline-formula><mml:math id="M300" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mi>J</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>;</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> where <inline-formula><mml:math id="M301" display="inline"><mml:mi>h</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula> is the height of the water column and <inline-formula><mml:math id="M302" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>J</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>;</mml:mo><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>,</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mfenced open="(" close=")"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:mfenced></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is the Jacobian of the coordinate transformation from (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M303" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M304" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) to (<inline-formula><mml:math id="M305" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M306" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>) <xref ref-type="bibr" rid="bib1.bibx3 bib1.bibx12 bib1.bibx16" id="paren.28"/>. In Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E24"/>) <inline-formula><mml:math id="M307" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is an integration constant, so <inline-formula><mml:math id="M308" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> while <inline-formula><mml:math id="M309" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> is independent of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M310" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> so <inline-formula><mml:math id="M311" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>x</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> i.e. <inline-formula><mml:math id="M312" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>=</mml:mo><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula>. In Eq. (<xref ref-type="disp-formula" rid="Ch1.E20"/>) <inline-formula><mml:math id="M313" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> appears in the expression of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M314" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo><mml:mo>-</mml:mo><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> so <inline-formula><mml:math id="M315" display="inline"><mml:mrow><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi mathvariant="normal">d</mml:mi><mml:mi>y</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle><mml:mo>≠</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">1</mml:mn></mml:mrow></mml:math></inline-formula> and, depending sensitively on the value of <inline-formula><mml:math id="M316" display="inline"><mml:mi mathvariant="italic">ω</mml:mi></mml:math></inline-formula>, <inline-formula><mml:math id="M317" display="inline"><mml:mstyle displaystyle="false"><mml:mfrac style="text"><mml:mrow><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mn mathvariant="normal">0</mml:mn><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow><mml:mrow><mml:mi>h</mml:mi><mml:mo>(</mml:mo><mml:mi>t</mml:mi><mml:mo>)</mml:mo></mml:mrow></mml:mfrac></mml:mstyle></mml:math></inline-formula> can be greater than 1 or less than 1 i.e., periodic stress can generate mean upwelling or downwelling. An examination of these results regarding the dependence of convergence or divergence on the forcing frequency should be examined using an OGCM along with the results associated with the direction of long-term longshore drift by the rotary wind forcing. The two extensions, as well as the identity assumed here between bottom depth and thickness of the surface Ekman layer in the bulk of the shelf, should be confirmed in future studies based on OGCM simulations.</p>
</sec>

      
      </body>
    <back><notes notes-type="codedataavailability"><title>Code and data availability</title>

      <p id="d2e6818">No new data were created or analyzed and no new codes were developed in this theoretical work.</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="authorcontribution"><title>Author contributions</title>

      <p id="d2e6824">NP: Initiation of project, Writing, Editing and LF: Analysis, Simulations, Editing.</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="competinginterests"><title>Competing interests</title>

      <p id="d2e6830">The contact author has declared that neither of the authors has any competing interests.</p>
  </notes><notes notes-type="disclaimer"><title>Disclaimer</title>

      <p id="d2e6836">Publisher's note: Copernicus Publications remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims made in the text, published maps, institutional affiliations, or any other geographical representation in this paper. The authors bear the ultimate responsibility for providing appropriate place names. Views expressed in the text are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher.</p>
  </notes><ack><title>Acknowledgements</title><p id="d2e6842">The constructive comments of Robert Weller and another anonymous reviewer have improved the presentation of the material presented in this study. The authors are happy to acknowledge that no funding was received for this research.</p></ack><notes notes-type="reviewstatement"><title>Review statement</title>

      <p id="d2e6847">This paper was edited by Anne Marie Treguier and reviewed by Robert Weller and Hui Wu.</p>
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    <!--<article-title-html>Horizontal transport on the continental shelf  driven by periodic rotary wind stress</article-title-html>
<abstract-html/>
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